the new authenticity rules aimed at removing inferior varieties from the market

the new authenticity rules aimed at removing inferior varieties from the market

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<p>Basmati is the UK’s most popular speciality rice, adding extra flavour and a special touch to everything from curries to pilafs and kedgerees. Almost three quarters of the world’s basmati is produced in India, and the UK buys 3% of it – plus significant quantities from the second biggest producer, Pakistan.</p>
<p>However, all is not well with this delicious staple. Since 2017, numerous newly bred varieties have been approved in the UK and EU, and some of these have proven to be inferior, lacking the unique popcorn flavour that makes this rice so sought after.</p>
<p>New regulations will be introduced in early 2023 aimed at removing these inferior basmati varieties from the market. Will this solve the problem?</p>
<h2>Basmati and the Code of Conduct</h2>
<p>Basmati rice has been grown for thousands of years in the fertile floodplains between the Indus and Ganges rivers. To be considered basmati, the grains must meet certain standards for things like fragrance, grain length and width, and cooked texture. They must also have a medium level of amylose, a component of the starch in rice.</p>
<p>However, fraudsters have been known to mix basmati with lower quality rice grains because it is up to 50% more expensive per kilo. A few decades ago, it was not uncommon for imported basmati to be more than 50% contaminated.</p>
<p>To get around this problem, the British Rice Association introduced a code of practice in 2005. This code, which is also followed throughout the EU, stipulates that basmati must not be more than 7% impure. It also introduced a list of 15 permitted varieties: nine traditional varieties that could be imported duty-free and six more that were modern varieties. At Bangor University, we developed the DNA fingerprinting system that is used to enforce the code and has sometimes led to prosecutions for violations.</p>
<p>The system worked well until 2017, when the code was updated to add 25 new modern varieties. This followed an explosion of new breeding in the 2000s and 2010s to solve the problem that traditional basmati varieties are tall, low-yielding plants that fall over if fed too much fertilizer. Breeders overcame this problem by using cross-breeding and selection to introduce the so-called “Green Revolution” semi-dwarf gene, which is also bred into most other modern rice varieties.</p>
<p>India and Pakistan had successfully convinced the UK and the EU that the quality of these 25 new varieties was equivalent to that of the 16 existing varieties. However, a few years later we were able to prove that this was not quite true.</p>
<p>By developing alternative DNA markers for fingerprints, we were able to prove that six of the new varieties – five from India and one from Pakistan – had not been properly bred for fragrances. Some did not even contain the version of the <em>BADH2</em> Gene that makes the aroma of basmati rice possible. Although India and Pakistan have strict systems for testing rice quality, they do not necessarily carry out genetic tests that would have uncovered the problem.</p>
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The future

The Rice Association has responded to this discovery by publishing a new code of conduct that removes the six varieties from the list of approved varieties. The code will come into force on January 1st and adds five new varieties that meet the requirements. This should allow consumers to buy basmati rice again with the confidence that it is of the highest quality.

But that’s not the end of the story. For one thing, the 7% contamination rule remains. I’ve long argued that the Rice Association should adopt the same 1% rule that applies to many products — for example, non-GMO foods. There’s no real reason for the basmati rice exception, and it’s arguably easier to enforce a 1% rule because that’s how DNA testing works.

Second, rice breeding is not standing still. Breeders are now focusing on crosses that give basmati varieties genes that require less fertilizer, are more resistant to diseases and therefore require fewer or no pesticides, and can tolerate drier growing conditions or salt-contaminated soils.

These varieties are not quite ready for the market yet, but are urgently needed to increase the sustainability of rice production. However, if such varieties are to be sold as ‘basmati’, they too will need to be monitored to ensure they meet the same high standards that consumers expect. The same goes for varieties created through genome editing, which have not yet entered the market but are likely to emerge in the next few decades.

Failure to maintain today’s standards could harm the industry – and especially the farmers who work so hard to produce this wonderful rice in the first place. It’s an interesting case study in how cutting-edge technology and the right regulations can ensure an old industry is still fit for purpose in the 21st century.

This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license. Read the original article.

The conversation

Katherine Steele has received funding for Bangor University from Defra, UKRI and the Food Standards Agency.

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