We have had several years of drought and there are likely more to come. For many of us, it makes sense to replace all or part of our lawn with less water-intensive plants.

If you choose to replace your lawn, make sure you do it right; grass that is not completely killed can grow back between new plantings, ruining the look of your new landscape and becoming a maintenance nightmare. The following three steps will lead to success.

Step one: Observe and plan. What existing trees and plants do you want to keep or remove? What are the sun and shade conditions in your yard? What types of grass will grow in your lawn? Do you want additional amenities such as paving or a shade structure? How will you water your new plants?

Step two: kill your lawn. Homeowners can use two environmentally friendly methods to kill their lawn: solarizing or mulching. For detailed instructions on solarizing, visit http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74145.html. For instructions on mulching, see “Sheet Compost Your Lawn Away – The Real Dirt Blog – ANR Blogs” at https://ucanr.edu/sites/bcmg.

Solarization uses the sun’s radiation to kill turf grasses as well as many common annual weeds, harmful soil microbes and seeds to a depth of 10 to 30 centimeters within six weeks.

Most beneficial microbes survive, including earthworms. Solarization requires six hours of full summer sun daily and takes 4 to 6 weeks. It works best on fescue, ryegrass and bluegrass, with partial success on Bermudagrass. Solarization must be completed before planting new crops.

Mulching with a film kills weeds by depriving them of light. It takes 6 to 10 months and can be started at any time of the year as long as there is at least a three-month growing season between them.

Mulch sheets work in sun or shade and are effective on all grasses, including Bermuda grass and many annual and perennial weeds. They are left in place permanently; over time, the dead turf, sheet and mulch decompose into soil-enriching compost. Mulch sheets should be installed before planting new plants if they are used solely to kill turf or weeds. They can be installed after plants are planted, provided solarization has been completed. New coverings and irrigation systems should be installed before solarization or mulch sheeting begins.

A third way to remove sod is to dig it up or scratch it out. However, keep in mind that this method will not kill Bermuda grass and most perennial weeds, as they have deep roots that will resprout. If you choose to dig up your Bermuda grass lawn, you should cover it with a mulch sheet afterward to prevent aggressive grass regrowth.

Step three: replant. Whatever method you choose to deadhead your lawn, plan it so that you’re ready to replant in the fall, winter, or early spring. The cool temperatures and moist soils of our rainy season allow drought-tolerant plants to develop the healthy roots they need to thrive with little water during the summer heat. Taking time to thoroughly deadhead the grass and waiting until climatic conditions are suitable for new plants will ensure the long-term success of a lawn replacement project.

Want more information? Maybe a hands-on demonstration? A free workshop on “How to Remove Your Lawn” will be offered on September 26 as part of the Fall 2024 Master Gardeners Workshop Series. For more information and to register, visit Workshops – UC Master Gardeners of Butte County (ucanr.edu).

The UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension system and support our community in many ways including 4-H, agricultural extension, and nutrition and exercise programs. For more information about the UCCE Butte County Master Gardeners and help with gardening in our area, visit https://ucanr.edu/sites/bcmg/. If you have any questions or gardening issues, call the helpline at 552-5812 or email [email protected].