When the sun comes out in the Pacific Northwest, so do the sailboats, setting out their jibs and mainsails in hopes of catching the perfect wind.

Sailing is the ultimate method of slow travel. You navigate through a world of wind and water at a leisurely pace. You have to slow down, enjoy your surroundings and be patient.

We cruised the Salish Sea on a four-day trip from Bellingham to Alderbrook Resort & Spa via the majestic Hood Canal on our 36-foot Canadian Sailcraft cruiser named Selkie.

In my twenties, I would eat lunch down by the water and find a spot in the park where I could watch the sailboats on Lake Union. Fascinated by their graceful beauty, I would watch them glide through the water with their sails unfurled, sometimes tipping to one side (called heeling) and cutting through the water with seemingly no effort. I watched and dreamed and romanticized the idea of ​​sailing.

Back then (and several decades later) I didn’t know that my dream would become reality.

Before setting sail: planning and preparation

Any successful sailing trip depends on careful planning. Weeks before departure, we began preparations, studying maps of the San Juan Islands and Hood Canal, among other things, to plot our best course. We factored in tides, currents and possible weather changes using downloadable apps on our phones and resources like NOAA’s Tides & Currents page.

Sailing also requires teamwork. In the week before our trip, Richard, my partner and captain for this trip, carefully checked the engine, fuel levels and all the equipment. In the meantime, I tackled the pantry, galley and toilet (because let’s face it, no one wants to be left without toilet paper at sea!). If anything needs freshening up, like linens or towels, we bring it home for a thorough washing.

The day dawned bright and fresh as we woke up to the sun rising over Bellingham Bay. With the smell of freshly brewed coffee filling the cabin, Richard did a final engine check before we cast off and pulled away. Sipping our steaming cups of coffee, we gently left the marina, only to be startled by a screeching heron saying goodbye.

Day 1: First leg

Our course took us down the Rosario Strait, past the Burrow’s Bay lighthouse, to where the waterway meets the much larger Strait of Juan de Fuca. Clear skies and little wind greeted us, so we “motored,” keeping the sails up and using the engine to catch every little breeze. After a long journey through this vast expanse, we finally anchored for the night in Mystery Bay on Marrowstone Island.

Pro tip: Mystery Bay is also a state park, located on the west side of Marrowstone Island, and has its own public beach and boat dock. But keep in mind that even summer evenings on the water can get chilly. Pack several layers of clothing, including long pants and sweatshirts. Sun protection is a must, and a hat is your friend, as the sun reflects intensely off the white deck.

Day 2: Mystery Bay to Port Ludlow

The second day started with a promise – overcast skies and a light westerly wind, a sailor’s delight! We set course for Port Ludlow Marina, about 12 nautical miles south. We opted for a shorter route and relished the chance to savour the slow travel experience. This way we can enjoy the scenery, including seabirds, porpoises and the odd seal coming up to watch us.

With the sails out, there is nothing better than the gentle heeling of the boat and the force of the wind guiding you. It feels like you are flying over the water. However, with such a light wind, frequent tacking (changing the direction of the sails) was necessary.

Day 3: The Hood Canal Bridge

Day three promised to be a highlight – the trip over the Hood Canal Bridge. We set sail with good wind and good weather. By calling the Department of Transportation, we secured a bridge opening time of 12:00 p.m. so that we could drive through the middle opening of the bridge. A surreal experience, because the traffic on State Route 104 came to an abrupt halt just to allow us to pass through.

The Hood Canal Bridge is over a mile long and has a drawbridge in the middle to accommodate large boats like ours (with a 53-foot mast) and passing submarines. Fixed sections at either end allow most of the rest of the boat traffic to pass underneath.

Our plans to reach Pleasant Harbor, halfway along Hood Canal, in the afternoon were thwarted. As with travel in general, things happen and it’s best to be flexible. However, it’s also a good idea to be prepared when sailing.

If something goes wrong, be prepared

Now we have officially arrived in Hood Canal!

But then a snag occurred in our smooth sailing. About a mile from the bridge, the engine began to overheat. Adrenaline rushed through our bodies, but was quickly replaced by the need for a plan. We needed to find a safe harbor where we could dock and anchor so Richard could assess the problem and come up with a simple solution!

Luckily, there seemed to be a marine reserve about 2.5 kilometers ahead. With a sigh of relief, we steered Selkie toward this harbor, using the current and any breeze we could find to propel us forward. We tied up at a parking buoy and assessed the situation.

The culprit? At first we thought it was a broken impeller, the wheel part responsible for circulating the cooling water through the engine. But when the water remained just a trickle, we soon realized there was a blockage in the water inlet hose.

Clearing it proved difficult until Richard had an idea – using the air pump he managed to blow out the blockage at the other end. We must have picked up some debris when we flew through the bridge opening. We were relieved when the water started flowing freely again.

By now the drama of the day was taking its toll. Exhaustion was setting in as the sunlight began to fade and the shadow of our boat grew longer. A quick and unanimous decision – Alderbrook would wait until tomorrow. We would spend the night here and cover the remaining nautical miles tomorrow with renewed energy. A southerly wind lulled the boat and us to sleep.

Day 4: Arrival in Alderbrook

Day four began with renewed courage. The engine problem had been solved and we set off on the final leg of our journey – a 33 nautical mile stretch to the Alderbrook Resort & Spa. The waters of Hood Canal were calm, still and quiet. So much so that it seemed more like a glass mirror reflecting the majesty of the Olympic Mountains and the surrounding landscape.

After passing the Bangor Naval Base, where some maneuvers were being practiced, we did not see another boat for many miles. But we did see a humpback whale surface alongside our boat (about 100 feet off the starboard side), making hardly a sound as it glided through the calm waters. Visitors to this region are treated to a rare sense of isolation, for despite the advances of mankind, the area is still largely undeveloped.

Hood Canal is not your typical saltwater inlet. It is a fjord formed by the scouring action of glaciers during the last ice age. As the glaciers retreated, they left behind a deep, narrow channel filled with pure saltwater. This geologic development has given the channel a staggering depth, over 500 feet in some places, deep enough for a humpback whale.

By late afternoon we rounded the hooked lower end of Hood Canal. When the Alderbrook Resort & Spa came into view, we pointed Selkie’s bow toward the marina and drifted gently toward her dock and home for the next two nights.

We took a little time out and started with an elegant dinner using ingredients fresh from the farm, followed by a soothing hot bath and a long, luxurious shower. Needless to say, we slept well that night.

As you pull into Alderbrook, you’ll have all the amenities you’d expect from a guest on this property, plus 1,500 feet of linear mooring for guests, power and water hookups, free WiFi, and the most breathtaking view to wake up to. If you’re more into watersports, you can rent one of their kayaks, SUPs, or hydrobikes. There’s even a seaplane dock for those who prefer to arrive by plane.

Thank you for sailing with Selkie and “may the wind always be at your back.”

MaryRose Denton is a freelance writer for Seattle Refined. See more of her work here. Photos by Richard Schmitz.